Category Archives: Ecologic

‘They are only interested in soy’

Devastating fires across South America’s fragile forests have put the spotlight on the impacts of an emboldened livestock and feedstock sector that is hungry for land and unburdened by legislation or law enforcement.

The Chaco forests in western Paraguay have been particularly badly hit by deforestation and fires, as cattle ranchers expand their pastures.

Eastern Paraguay, on the other hand, has already been largely cleared of its forests, which were burned over recent decades to clear land for agribusiness. There, 94 percent of arable land is used for cultivating genetically-modified monocultures, primarily soy, which is exported as animal feed.

Regaining control 

Peasant and indigenous communities are caught between a state-sponsored agribusiness industry that steals land and poisons the air, soil and water, and a climate emergency that puts even more pressure on their already fragile ability to feed themselves.

With minimal external support but maximum threats to land security, community health and food sovereignty, peasant and indigenous communities are organising to reclaim control of their lives.

Women are at the forefront of this resistance, and in particular they are strengthening their organisations through training and skill-sharing to tackle gender-based discrimination, on top of all of the other pressures they face.

Eastern Paraguay was once covered by wooded savannahs, grasslands and dense humid subtropical forest, but these habitats have been devastated in the race to free up land for industrial-scale export-oriented agricultural production, especially of genetically-modified soybeans and beef.

Sojization or “soyification” is the term used locally to describe this process. Many peasant and indigenous communities have been evicted from their lands or persuaded to sell or lease their lands for little in return. The people left behind speak of empty schools, and land and water contaminated with agricultural toxins, which are killing crops and animals as well as making people sick.

Peasant farmers blockade a major road to disrupt crop spraying. Photo by Hugo Hooijer
Peasant farmers blockade a major road to disrupt crop spraying. Photo by Hugo Hooijer

The dire situation in Paraguay has led to serious conflict between the state and agribusiness on one side, and Indigenous Peoples and peasant communities on the other.

Peasant and indigenous communities, and in particular their women members, are working together to protect their food sovereignty, indigenous seeds, natural medicinal resources and traditional, ancestral knowledge. They are organising through the Federación Nacional Campesina (National Federation of Peasants/FNC) and Coordinadora Nacional de Mujeres Campesinas e Indígenas (National Coordination of Peasant and Indigenous Women). 

Faced with the twin threats of advancing monocultures and climate emergency, they are building their own resilience from the soil up.

Women from Crescencio González participating in a community assembly. Photo by Inés Franceschelli
Women from Crescencio González participating in a community assembly. Photo by Inés Franceschelli

The community at Crescencio González is a direct result of the struggle over land. It cost the lives of five militants, including Crescencio González, who was the first to be killed and where the settlement takes its name from.

The dispute ended when the government gave the community back 5,000 hectares to live on and farm. The participation of women in political assemblies and decision-making meetings in Crescencio González is increasing, and they are doing so with extraordinary enthusiasm.

Together with their children they participate and debate, and are heard and respected by their peers. In this particular assembly, while women discussed how to achieve food sovereignty through sustainable food production, the men in the community cooked and then served them lunch.

Native varieties of maize and bean seeds, and free-ranch eggs on display at a community event in Crescencio González. Photo by Inés Franceschelli
Native varieties of maize and bean seeds, and free-ranch eggs on display at a community event in Crescencio González. Photo by Inés Franceschelli

Crescencio González is organised by the National Federation of Peasants (FNC). One of the main objectives of the FNC is to conserve agrobiodiversity, which encompasses the variety and variability of animals, plants and microorganisms which are necessary to sustain the key functions of the agroecosystem, in order to support and ensure food production and food security.

This is in stark contrast to the vast majority of agriculture in the country, which relies on vast monocultures and huge inputs of chemical fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides.

“Paraguayan soup”, a traditional Paraguayan food made from native corn in the FNC’s Sebastián Larrosa settlement. Photo by Susana Balbuena
“Paraguayan soup”, a traditional Paraguayan food made from native corn in the FNC’s Sebastián Larrosa settlement. Photo by Susana Balbuena

Food sovereignty and security are central to climate resilience and the ability of communities to adapt to increasingly extreme climates. As in many parts of the world, Paraguay’s climate is getting hotter and drier, with drought conditions straining already fragile and marginalised local food production.

At the same time, extreme weather events are causing severe flooding in the wet season, which has turned many peasant and indigenous communities into climate refugees, and forced them into slums in urban areas.

FNC general secretary Teodolina Villalba and a compañera serving food to a community event in Sebastián Larrosa, another FNC settlement. Photo by Inés Franceschelli
FNC general secretary Teodolina Villalba and a compañera serving food to a community event in Sebastián Larrosa, another FNC settlement. Photo by Inés Franceschelli

The National Federation of Peasants has a Women’s Front, which for many years has been working to empower women to fulfill political roles in the organisation and more broadly.

As an example of the success of this women-led organising, this year’s Peasant March in the capital Asunción was led by FNC women who carried a banner with the slogan “Land and Production for National Development”.

During the closing ceremony, the three speeches were also given by women. A woman from Sebastián Larrosa commented of the Paraguayan state: “They are not interested in peasant or indigenous production, they are only interested in soy. Their response is always eviction, because they need more and more land to produce on.”

A house in Tovatiry. Photo by Inés Franceschelli
A house in Tovatiry. Photo by Inés Franceschelli​​​​​

The pressures from competing land uses and climate change are felt by all communities in Paraguay. While some are able to support themselves to live in dignity, others are not so fortunate.

The Tovatiry community is home to the Avá Guaraní Indigenous People, and now finds itself in a situation of extreme poverty, having been forgotten by local and national authorities. The drought suffered in the spring spoiled all of the corn crop and much of the bean crop.

Several families have already left the community to go to the closest city. The families that have remained had to subsist on cassava and by hunting, and the eggs that four hens provided, shared between ten families. there were also several reports of sexist violence against women leaders. Despite these extreme challenges, the community continues to resist and build towards a better future.

Community assembly in Tovaitry. Photo by Inés Franceschelli
Community assembly in Tovaitry. Photo by Inés Franceschelli​​​​​

Before the drought and with the support of the National Coordination of Peasant and Indigenous Women, the Ava Guaraní community had been planning to build a storehouse to preserve the diverse range of crops they had planted.

But the limited resources available to them through the fundraising of peasant and indigenous organisations had to be redirected towards helping to plant the next crop, in the hope that another drought wouldn’t destroy that too. In the absence of state support it is up to grassroots organisations to provide the support themselves.

The community at Tovaitry is a clear example of the vulnerability of communities on the front-lines of climate change, and how precarious their lives are.

A woman from Arsenio Vazquez removes a dish of Paraguayan soup from a “tatakua” (traditional clay oven), made from corn cultivated by the community. Photo by Inés Franceschelli
A woman from Arsenio Vazquez removes a dish of Paraguayan soup from a “tatakua” (traditional clay oven), made from corn cultivated by the community. Photo by Inés Franceschelli

The Arsenio Vázquez settlement is another National Federation of Peasants success story, built on the struggle for access to land. It covers 1,100 hectares and is named after a peasant leader who was martyred during the occupation that ultimately secured the land and rights to it for the community. Today, at almost 15 years old, it is flourishing and produces food for the community and surrounding areas.

Women discuss food sovereignty and climate change in Arsenio Vázquez. Photo by Lisa Meyer
Women discuss food sovereignty and climate change in Arsenio Vázquez. Photo by Lisa Meyer​​​

Women in Arsenio Vázquez are confident and defiant. The level of organisation and collective action in the community, and the importance given to women’s participation in collective processes, are responsible for its growth and development.

Community members are free and able to come together to discuss all of the issues that are important to them and learn from past mistakes, whilst also bringing new knowledge and understanding to traditional practices, allowing their quality of life to be continually improved. They recognise that deforestation produces climate change and poverty, and that a system that evicts farmers from their land for cows and soybeans can only benefit the very privileged few.

With the threats posed by climate change and industrial agriculture only increasing, they must support each other to survive.

These communities are clear that in order to be able to adapt to the worsening climate crisis, big agribusiness must be stopped from stealing their land, destroying their biodiversity and poisoning their water.

At the same time, their collective and women-led efforts to organise for their own resilience must be respected and supported. The indigenous and peasant women featured in this photo essay embody the kind of ambitious and transformative climate action that is so desperately needed.

This Author 

The Global Forest Coalition is a worldwide coalition of 99 NGOs and Indigenous peoples’ organisations from 62 different countries striving for rights-based, socially just forest conservation policies. Follow the Global Forest Coalition on Facebook and Twitter

This photo essay is based on trainings facilitated by Heñói, a member of the Global Forest Coalition. Heñói has been developing a process of dialogue, training and debate with peasant and indigenous women since 2016, with the objective of strengthening their organisational capacity, and their struggles to reclaim their rights. 

Eco-fashion brand ‘exaggerated’ green credentials

One of the most popular eco-friendly fashion brands in the world has been slapped with a watchdog warning after an inquiry found that it was likely misleading customers about how sustainable it really is. 

The warning was given to ethical label Matt & Nat, a pioneer of vegan bags and shoes, by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA). 

The retailer was warned it should not “exaggerate” its use of recycled material, after the ASA received a complaint that a Matt & Nat print advertisement had misrepresented the brand’s green credentials.

Advertising rules

The complaint concerned a flyer with the image of a backpack made from one of the most environmentally damaging plastics, polyvinyl chloride or PVC, but with the tagline, “Vegan.Cruelty Free.Recycled” suggesting that this bag in particular, and the brand in general, is eco-friendly.

The complainant said this was deceptive given that only the bag’s lining is made of recycled plastic bottles, while the tag stated the bag itself was made of 100 percent PVC.

A case officer at the ASA said: “We have concluded that [the Matt & Nat] flyer was likely to have breached the advertising rules we apply and we have taken steps to address this.

“We have explained [the complainant’s] concerns to the advertiser and provided guidance to them on the areas that require attention, together with advice on how to ensure that their advertising complies with the codes.”

The codes – 3.1, 3.3, 3.7 and 3.11 – state advertisements must not mislead consumers by omitting or hiding material information, presenting it in an ambiguous manner, or exaggerating the performance of a product. Advertisers must also be able to prove any claims being made.

A spokesman for the ASA added: “We told the advertiser to ensure that in future its ads do not exaggerate the amount of recycled material in its products. In addition, we set out the relevant advertising code clauses that apply. And we highlighted our guidance on Misleading Advertising and Substantiation.”

Environmental campaigners

The complainant also shared the contents of a leaked email from Matt & Nat’s customer care. It crucially revealed the brand’s extensive but unclarified use of PVC in two main collections – information that they felt contradicts the retailer’s branding as an eco-friendly label. ⁠

This means that 54 percent of all bags and shoes currently being sold on its website as eco-friendly would not qualify as such. This figure was even higher in August, at 65 percent.  The email noted the Dwell and Vintage collections are made of PVC, with only linings made out of recycled plastic bottles.

At the time of publication, Matt & Nat had not commented on this story.

The retailer’s use of toxic PVC and lack of transparency and has been called out by environmental campaigners.

Greenpeace stressed that for a fashion label to be sustainable it must not use any PVC at all. A spokesperson said: “PVC contains toxic additives and is difficult to recycle, making it harmful for people and the planet. It is made with chlorine which is very energy intensive and from ethylene, a petroleum product. 

“Brands which seek to be truly eco-friendly must completely avoid the use of PVC. It is also important that only products made wholly from recycled materials are described as ‘recycled’. Customers trying to shop ethically need to know they can trust retailer product descriptions.”

Cruelty-free

The animal charity PETA, that has previously endorsed Matt & Nat for being eco-friendly, has also stressed that the use of PVC does not qualify as sustainable.

Yvonne Taylor, director of corporate projects at PETA, said: “PETA commends all brands that use animal-free materials. However, with the huge array of animal-free, eco-friendly vegan leathers now available, we agree that there is no need for any brand to still use PVC.”

The complaint added that Matt & Nat states on its website that “PU is less harmful for the environment than PVC and we make it a point to use it whenever possible”. This gives the impression that PVC is only sparingly used whereas the email reveals otherwise.

The complaint argued that Matt & Nat’s tagline, “Vegan.Cruelty Free.Recycled”, gives the false impression that all of the retailer’s products are recycled.

Ethical fashion

The revelations in the email and the ASA’s ruling are important given the retailer’s position as a leader in the ethical, eco-friendly fashion world.

Matt and Nat was founded in Canada in 1995 as a vegan brand, selling shoes and bags that did not make use of animal products. However, the company’s marketing strategy has evolved over the years and it now presents itself as an environmentally friendly label. Its products are sold across the world in the UK, US, Japan, Germany and Australia.

The retailer was nominated at the prestigious Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards (CAFA) awards in May, for Accessory Designer of the Year, and has been repeatedly praised in publications in the UK for its eco-friendly and vegan credentials.

This Author 

Hiba Mahamadi is a freelance journalist writing about financial crime and corruption. 

Eco-fashion brand ‘exaggerated’ green credentials

One of the most popular eco-friendly fashion brands in the world has been slapped with a watchdog warning after an inquiry found that it was likely misleading customers about how sustainable it really is. 

The warning was given to ethical label Matt & Nat, a pioneer of vegan bags and shoes, by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA). 

The retailer was warned it should not “exaggerate” its use of recycled material, after the ASA received a complaint that a Matt & Nat print advertisement had misrepresented the brand’s green credentials.

Advertising rules

The complaint concerned a flyer with the image of a backpack made from one of the most environmentally damaging plastics, polyvinyl chloride or PVC, but with the tagline, “Vegan.Cruelty Free.Recycled” suggesting that this bag in particular, and the brand in general, is eco-friendly.

The complainant said this was deceptive given that only the bag’s lining is made of recycled plastic bottles, while the tag stated the bag itself was made of 100 percent PVC.

A case officer at the ASA said: “We have concluded that [the Matt & Nat] flyer was likely to have breached the advertising rules we apply and we have taken steps to address this.

“We have explained [the complainant’s] concerns to the advertiser and provided guidance to them on the areas that require attention, together with advice on how to ensure that their advertising complies with the codes.”

The codes – 3.1, 3.3, 3.7 and 3.11 – state advertisements must not mislead consumers by omitting or hiding material information, presenting it in an ambiguous manner, or exaggerating the performance of a product. Advertisers must also be able to prove any claims being made.

A spokesman for the ASA added: “We told the advertiser to ensure that in future its ads do not exaggerate the amount of recycled material in its products. In addition, we set out the relevant advertising code clauses that apply. And we highlighted our guidance on Misleading Advertising and Substantiation.”

Environmental campaigners

The complainant also shared the contents of a leaked email from Matt & Nat’s customer care. It crucially revealed the brand’s extensive but unclarified use of PVC in two main collections – information that they felt contradicts the retailer’s branding as an eco-friendly label. ⁠

This means that 54 percent of all bags and shoes currently being sold on its website as eco-friendly would not qualify as such. This figure was even higher in August, at 65 percent.  The email noted the Dwell and Vintage collections are made of PVC, with only linings made out of recycled plastic bottles.

At the time of publication, Matt & Nat had not commented on this story.

The retailer’s use of toxic PVC and lack of transparency and has been called out by environmental campaigners.

Greenpeace stressed that for a fashion label to be sustainable it must not use any PVC at all. A spokesperson said: “PVC contains toxic additives and is difficult to recycle, making it harmful for people and the planet. It is made with chlorine which is very energy intensive and from ethylene, a petroleum product. 

“Brands which seek to be truly eco-friendly must completely avoid the use of PVC. It is also important that only products made wholly from recycled materials are described as ‘recycled’. Customers trying to shop ethically need to know they can trust retailer product descriptions.”

Cruelty-free

The animal charity PETA, that has previously endorsed Matt & Nat for being eco-friendly, has also stressed that the use of PVC does not qualify as sustainable.

Yvonne Taylor, director of corporate projects at PETA, said: “PETA commends all brands that use animal-free materials. However, with the huge array of animal-free, eco-friendly vegan leathers now available, we agree that there is no need for any brand to still use PVC.”

The complaint added that Matt & Nat states on its website that “PU is less harmful for the environment than PVC and we make it a point to use it whenever possible”. This gives the impression that PVC is only sparingly used whereas the email reveals otherwise.

The complaint argued that Matt & Nat’s tagline, “Vegan.Cruelty Free.Recycled”, gives the false impression that all of the retailer’s products are recycled.

Ethical fashion

The revelations in the email and the ASA’s ruling are important given the retailer’s position as a leader in the ethical, eco-friendly fashion world.

Matt and Nat was founded in Canada in 1995 as a vegan brand, selling shoes and bags that did not make use of animal products. However, the company’s marketing strategy has evolved over the years and it now presents itself as an environmentally friendly label. Its products are sold across the world in the UK, US, Japan, Germany and Australia.

The retailer was nominated at the prestigious Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards (CAFA) awards in May, for Accessory Designer of the Year, and has been repeatedly praised in publications in the UK for its eco-friendly and vegan credentials.

This Author 

Hiba Mahamadi is a freelance journalist writing about financial crime and corruption. 

Eco-fashion brand ‘exaggerated’ green credentials

One of the most popular eco-friendly fashion brands in the world has been slapped with a watchdog warning after an inquiry found that it was likely misleading customers about how sustainable it really is. 

The warning was given to ethical label Matt & Nat, a pioneer of vegan bags and shoes, by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA). 

The retailer was warned it should not “exaggerate” its use of recycled material, after the ASA received a complaint that a Matt & Nat print advertisement had misrepresented the brand’s green credentials.

Advertising rules

The complaint concerned a flyer with the image of a backpack made from one of the most environmentally damaging plastics, polyvinyl chloride or PVC, but with the tagline, “Vegan.Cruelty Free.Recycled” suggesting that this bag in particular, and the brand in general, is eco-friendly.

The complainant said this was deceptive given that only the bag’s lining is made of recycled plastic bottles, while the tag stated the bag itself was made of 100 percent PVC.

A case officer at the ASA said: “We have concluded that [the Matt & Nat] flyer was likely to have breached the advertising rules we apply and we have taken steps to address this.

“We have explained [the complainant’s] concerns to the advertiser and provided guidance to them on the areas that require attention, together with advice on how to ensure that their advertising complies with the codes.”

The codes – 3.1, 3.3, 3.7 and 3.11 – state advertisements must not mislead consumers by omitting or hiding material information, presenting it in an ambiguous manner, or exaggerating the performance of a product. Advertisers must also be able to prove any claims being made.

A spokesman for the ASA added: “We told the advertiser to ensure that in future its ads do not exaggerate the amount of recycled material in its products. In addition, we set out the relevant advertising code clauses that apply. And we highlighted our guidance on Misleading Advertising and Substantiation.”

Environmental campaigners

The complainant also shared the contents of a leaked email from Matt & Nat’s customer care. It crucially revealed the brand’s extensive but unclarified use of PVC in two main collections – information that they felt contradicts the retailer’s branding as an eco-friendly label. ⁠

This means that 54 percent of all bags and shoes currently being sold on its website as eco-friendly would not qualify as such. This figure was even higher in August, at 65 percent.  The email noted the Dwell and Vintage collections are made of PVC, with only linings made out of recycled plastic bottles.

At the time of publication, Matt & Nat had not commented on this story.

The retailer’s use of toxic PVC and lack of transparency and has been called out by environmental campaigners.

Greenpeace stressed that for a fashion label to be sustainable it must not use any PVC at all. A spokesperson said: “PVC contains toxic additives and is difficult to recycle, making it harmful for people and the planet. It is made with chlorine which is very energy intensive and from ethylene, a petroleum product. 

“Brands which seek to be truly eco-friendly must completely avoid the use of PVC. It is also important that only products made wholly from recycled materials are described as ‘recycled’. Customers trying to shop ethically need to know they can trust retailer product descriptions.”

Cruelty-free

The animal charity PETA, that has previously endorsed Matt & Nat for being eco-friendly, has also stressed that the use of PVC does not qualify as sustainable.

Yvonne Taylor, director of corporate projects at PETA, said: “PETA commends all brands that use animal-free materials. However, with the huge array of animal-free, eco-friendly vegan leathers now available, we agree that there is no need for any brand to still use PVC.”

The complaint added that Matt & Nat states on its website that “PU is less harmful for the environment than PVC and we make it a point to use it whenever possible”. This gives the impression that PVC is only sparingly used whereas the email reveals otherwise.

The complaint argued that Matt & Nat’s tagline, “Vegan.Cruelty Free.Recycled”, gives the false impression that all of the retailer’s products are recycled.

Ethical fashion

The revelations in the email and the ASA’s ruling are important given the retailer’s position as a leader in the ethical, eco-friendly fashion world.

Matt and Nat was founded in Canada in 1995 as a vegan brand, selling shoes and bags that did not make use of animal products. However, the company’s marketing strategy has evolved over the years and it now presents itself as an environmentally friendly label. Its products are sold across the world in the UK, US, Japan, Germany and Australia.

The retailer was nominated at the prestigious Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards (CAFA) awards in May, for Accessory Designer of the Year, and has been repeatedly praised in publications in the UK for its eco-friendly and vegan credentials.

This Author 

Hiba Mahamadi is a freelance journalist writing about financial crime and corruption. 

Eco-fashion brand ‘exaggerated’ green credentials

One of the most popular eco-friendly fashion brands in the world today – with former ambassadors like Fearne Cotton and Natalie Portman – has been slapped with a watchdog warning after an inquiry found that it was likely misleading customers about how sustainable it really is. 

The warning was given to ethical label Matt & Nat, a pioneer of vegan bags and shoes, by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA). 

The retailer was warned it should not “exaggerate” its use of recycled material, after the ASA received a complaint that a Matt & Nat print advertisement had misrepresented the brand’s green credentials.

Advertising rules

The complaint concerned a flyer with the image of a backpack made from one of the most environmentally damaging plastics, polyvinyl chloride or PVC, but with the tagline, “Vegan.Cruelty Free.Recycled” suggesting that this bag in particular, and the brand in general, is eco-friendly.

The complainant said this was deceptive given that only the bag’s lining is made of recycled plastic bottles, while the tag stated the bag itself was made of 100 percent PVC.

A case officer at the ASA said: “We have concluded that [the Matt & Nat] flyer was likely to have breached the advertising rules we apply and we have taken steps to address this.

“We have explained [the complainant’s] concerns to the advertiser and provided guidance to them on the areas that require attention, together with advice on how to ensure that their advertising complies with the codes.”

The codes – 3.1, 3.3, 3.7 and 3.11 – state advertisements must not mislead consumers by omitting or hiding material information, presenting it in an ambiguous manner, or exaggerating the performance of a product. Advertisers must also be able to prove any claims being made.

A spokesman for the ASA added: “We told the advertiser to ensure that in future its ads do not exaggerate the amount of recycled material in its products. In addition, we set out the relevant advertising code clauses that apply. And we highlighted our guidance on Misleading Advertising and Substantiation.”

Environmental campaigners

The complainant also shared the contents of a leaked email from Matt & Nat’s customer care. It crucially revealed the brand’s extensive but unclarified use of PVC in two main collections – information that they felt contradicts the retailer’s branding as an eco-friendly label. ⁠

This means that 54 percent of all bags and shoes currently being sold on its website as eco-friendly would not qualify as such. This figure was even higher in August, at 65 percent.  The email noted the Dwell and Vintage collections are made of PVC, with only linings made out of recycled plastic bottles.

At the time of publication, Matt & Nat had not commented on this story.

The retailer’s use of toxic PVC and lack of transparency and has been called out by environmental campaigners.

Greenpeace stressed that for a fashion label to be sustainable it must not use any PVC at all. A spokesperson said: “PVC contains toxic additives and is difficult to recycle, making it harmful for people and the planet. It is made with chlorine which is very energy intensive and from ethylene, a petroleum product. 

“Brands which seek to be truly eco-friendly must completely avoid the use of PVC. It is also important that only products made wholly from recycled materials are described as ‘recycled’. Customers trying to shop ethically need to know they can trust retailer product descriptions.”

Cruelty-free

The animal charity PETA, that has previously endorsed Matt & Nat for being eco-friendly, has also stressed that the use of PVC does not qualify as sustainable.

Yvonne Taylor, director of corporate projects at PETA, said: “PETA commends all brands that use animal-free materials. However, with the huge array of animal-free, eco-friendly vegan leathers now available, we agree that there is no need for any brand to still use PVC.”

The complaint added that Matt & Nat states on its website that “PU is less harmful for the environment than PVC and we make it a point to use it whenever possible”. This gives the impression that PVC is only sparingly used whereas the email reveals otherwise.T

The complaint argued that Matt & Nat’s tagline, “Vegan.Cruelty Free.Recycled”, gives the false impression that all of the retailer’s products are recycled.

Ethical fashion

The revelations in the email and the ASA’s ruling are important given the retailer’s position as a leader in the ethical, eco-friendly fashion world.

It was founded in Canada in 1995 as a vegan brand, selling shoes and bags that did not make use of animal products. However, the company’s marketing strategy has evolved over the years and it now presents itself as an environmentally friendly label. Its products are sold across the world in the UK, US, Japan, Germany and Australia.

The retailer was nominated at the prestigious Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards (CAFA) awards in May, for Accessory Designer of the Year, and has been repeatedly praised in publications in the UK for its eco-friendly and vegan credentials.

This Author 

Hiba Mahamadi is a freelance journalist writing about financial crime and corruption. 

Neoliberal lobby groups undermining climate policy

The US lobby groups representing the fossil fuel and automotive industries are world leaders when it comes to stalling government action on climate change, new research shows.

Of the top 10 trade associations considered to be the most effective at opposing climate-friendly policies globally, seven are based in Washington DC, according to a report published this week by lobbying watchdog InfluenceMap.

Many of the organisations, which include the American Petroleum Institute and the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers, have had their wishes granted since President Donald Trump’s election. As part of a broader deregulatory agenda, the Trump administration has scrapped regulations on methane emissions and automotive fuel efficiency standards.

Cap-and-trade

Analysis by the NYU School of Law’s State Energy and Environmental Impact Center suggests these regulatory rollbacks will add an estimated 200 million tonnes of extra greenhouse gas emissions annually by 2025.

The report coincides with a UN Climate Action Summit taking place in New York this week, which aims to strengthen countries’ emissions reduction plans, with an overall goal of “net zero” by 2050.

The lobby groups highlighted in the report have been working to undermine efforts to introduce climate policies since long before Trump’s election, however.

The National Association of Manufacturers, which tops the list, coordinated the now-defunct Global Climate Coalition, which tried to influence the UN’s IPCC process and spread doubt about climate science during the 1990s.

In 2009, the American Petroleum Institute and the American Fuel & Petrochemical Manufacturers funded rallies against the proposed Clean Energy Act which would have established a “cap-and-trade” emissions scheme across the country.

Activism

The National Mining Association currently runs an astroturf campaign called ‘Count on Coal’, while the American Legislative Exchange Council (ALEC), a recipient of Koch and ExxonMobil funding, has developed numerous “model bills” for states to adopt over the years. They include opposition to renewable energy targets and support for the controversial Keystone XL tar sands pipeline.

Three trade associations from other countries feature in the top 10: the Canadian Association of Petroleum Producers, the Minerals Council of Australia and the Japan Business Federation. BusinessEurope, a coalition of trade federations that has opposed the EU increasing its action on climate change, sits at number 12.

InfluenceMap argues that while the groups have so far managed to avoid significant public scrutiny, they are being “increasingly challenged by investors, the media and politicians that recognise the role they play in holding back effective action to mitigate greenhouse gas emissions.”

Beau O’Sullivan, Communications Manager at the shareholder activism charity ShareAction, said the findings reinforce growing calls for companies to sever ties with organisations working to kill off strong climate policies:

Dire

“This report rightly quantifies the insidious nature of the anti-climate lobby powerhouse. Investors are indeed alert to this and are taking action.”

“Most recently, investors have filed an ambitious shareholder resolution at mining company BHP to ask it to cut ties with the worst offenders in obstructive lobbying, namely the Minerals Council of Australia, Business Council of Australia, and USchamber of commerce. Voting for this proposal will be a real test of investor action.”

Ed Collins, Project Lead on Climate Lobbying at InfluenceMap, told DeSmog the trade associations were also “facing increasing pressure from more progressive parts of their membership”.

 “We are at a crucial time for climate action. But against a backdrop of huge public concern around climate change and increasingly dire warnings from scientists, these trade groups continue to frustrate progress on climate policy, especially in the US, which should be leading the world in terms of climate ambition,” he said.

This Author

Richard Collett-White writes for Desomg.uk, where this article first appeared.

Eco-fashion brand ‘exaggerated’ green credentials

One of the most popular eco-friendly fashion brands in the world today – with former ambassadors like Fearne Cotton and Natalie Portman – has been slapped by a watchdog warning after an inquiry found that it was likely misleading customers about how sustainable it really is. 

The warning was given to ethical label Matt & Nat, a pioneer of vegan bags and shoes, by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA). 

The retailer was warned it should not “exaggerate” its use of recycled material, after the ASA received a complaint that a Matt & Nat print advertisement had misrepresented the brand’s green credentials.

Advertising rules

The complaint concerned a flyer with the image of a backpack made from one of the most environmentally damaging plastics, polyvinyl chloride or PVC, but with the tagline, “Vegan.Cruelty Free.Recycled” suggesting that this bag in particular, and the brand in general, is eco-friendly.

The complainant said this was deceptive given that only the bag’s lining is made of recycled plastic bottles, while the tag stated the bag itself was made of 100 percent PVC.

A case officer at the ASA said: “We have concluded that [the Matt & Nat] flyer was likely to have breached the advertising rules we apply and we have taken steps to address this.

“We have explained [the complainant’s] concerns to the advertiser and provided guidance to them on the areas that require attention, together with advice on how to ensure that their advertising complies with the codes.”

The codes – 3.1, 3.3, 3.7 and 3.11 – state advertisements must not mislead consumers by omitting or hiding material information, presenting it in an ambiguous manner, or exaggerating the performance of a product. Advertisers must also be able to prove any claims being made.

A spokesman for the ASA added: “We told the advertiser to ensure that in future its ads do not exaggerate the amount of recycled material in its products. In addition, we set out the relevant advertising code clauses that apply. And we highlighted our guidance on Misleading Advertising and Substantiation.”

Environmental campaigners

The complainant also shared the contents of a leaked email from Matt & Nat’s customer care. It crucially revealed the brand’s extensive but unclarified use of PVC in two main collections – information that they felt contradicts the retailer’s branding as an eco-friendly label. ⁠

This means that 54 percent of all bags and shoes currently being sold on its website as eco-friendly would not qualify as such. This figure was even higher in August, at 65 percent.  The email noted the Dwell and Vintage collections are made of PVC, with only linings made out of recycled plastic bottles.

At the time of publication, Matt & Nat had not commented on this story.

The retailer’s use of toxic PVC and lack of transparency and has been called out by environmental campaigners.

Greenpeace stressed that for a fashion label to be sustainable it must not use any PVC at all. A spokesperson said: “PVC contains toxic additives and is difficult to recycle, making it harmful for people and the planet. It is made with chlorine which is very energy intensive and from ethylene, a petroleum product. 

“Brands which seek to be truly eco-friendly must completely avoid the use of PVC. It is also important that only products made wholly from recycled materials are described as ‘recycled’. Customers trying to shop ethically need to know they can trust retailer product descriptions.”

Cruelty-free

The animal charity PETA, that has previously endorsed Matt & Nat for being eco-friendly, has also stressed that the use of PVC does not qualify as sustainable.

Yvonne Taylor, director of corporate projects at PETA, said: “PETA commends all brands that use animal-free materials. However, with the huge array of animal-free, eco-friendly vegan leathers now available, we agree that there is no need for any brand to still use PVC.”

The complaint added that Matt & Nat states on its website that “PU is less harmful for the environment than PVC and we make it a point to use it whenever possible”. This gives the impression that PVC is only sparingly used whereas the email reveals otherwise.T

The complaint argued that Matt & Nat’s tagline, “Vegan.Cruelty Free.Recycled”, gives the false impression that all of the retailer’s products are recycled.

Ethical fashion

The revelations in the email and the ASA’s ruling are important given the retailer’s position as a leader in the ethical, eco-friendly fashion world.

It was founded in Canada in 1995 as a vegan brand, selling shoes and bags that did not make use of animal products. However, the company’s marketing strategy has evolved over the years and it now presents itself as an environmentally friendly label. Its products are sold across the world in the UK, US, Japan, Germany and Australia.

The retailer was nominated at the prestigious Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards (CAFA) awards in May, for Accessory Designer of the Year, and has been repeatedly praised in publications in the UK for its eco-friendly and vegan credentials.

This Author 

Hiba Mahamadi is a freelance journalist writing about financial crime and corruption. 

Neoliberal think tanks undermining climate policy

The US lobby groups representing the fossil fuel and automotive industries are world leaders when it comes to stalling government action on climate change, new research shows.

Of the top 10 trade associations considered to be the most effective at opposing climate-friendly policies globally, seven are based in Washington DC, according to a report published this week by lobbying watchdog InfluenceMap.

Many of the organisations, which include the American Petroleum Institute and the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers, have had their wishes granted since President Donald Trump’s election. As part of a broader deregulatory agenda, the Trump administration has scrapped regulations on methane emissions and automotive fuel efficiency standards.

Cap-and-trade

Analysis by the NYU School of Law’s State Energy and Environmental Impact Center suggests these regulatory rollbacks will add an estimated 200 million tonnes of extra greenhouse gas emissions annually by 2025.

The report coincides with a UN Climate Action Summit taking place in New York this week, which aims to strengthen countries’ emissions reduction plans, with an overall goal of “net zero” by 2050.

The lobby groups highlighted in the report have been working to undermine efforts to introduce climate policies since long before Trump’s election, however.

The National Association of Manufacturers, which tops the list, coordinated the now-defunct Global Climate Coalition, which tried to influence the UN’s IPCC process and spread doubt about climate science during the 1990s.

In 2009, the American Petroleum Institute and the American Fuel & Petrochemical Manufacturers funded rallies against the proposed Clean Energy Act which would have established a “cap-and-trade” emissions scheme across the country.

Activism

The National Mining Association currently runs an astroturf campaign called ‘Count on Coal’, while the American Legislative Exchange Council (ALEC), a recipient of Koch and ExxonMobil funding, has developed numerous “model bills” for states to adopt over the years. They include opposition to renewable energy targets and support for the controversial Keystone XL tar sands pipeline.

Three trade associations from other countries feature in the top 10: the Canadian Association of Petroleum Producers, the Minerals Council of Australia and the Japan Business Federation. BusinessEurope, a coalition of trade federations that has opposed the EU increasing its action on climate change, sits at number 12.

InfluenceMap argues that while the groups have so far managed to avoid significant public scrutiny, they are being “increasingly challenged by investors, the media and politicians that recognise the role they play in holding back effective action to mitigate greenhouse gas emissions.”

Beau O’Sullivan, Communications Manager at the shareholder activism charity ShareAction, said the findings reinforce growing calls for companies to sever ties with organisations working to kill off strong climate policies:

Dire

“This report rightly quantifies the insidious nature of the anti-climate lobby powerhouse. Investors are indeed alert to this and are taking action.”

“Most recently, investors have filed an ambitious shareholder resolution at mining company BHP to ask it to cut ties with the worst offenders in obstructive lobbying, namely the Minerals Council of Australia, Business Council of Australia, and USchamber of commerce. Voting for this proposal will be a real test of investor action.”

Ed Collins, Project Lead on Climate Lobbying at InfluenceMap, told DeSmog the trade associations were also “facing increasing pressure from more progressive parts of their membership”.

 “We are at a crucial time for climate action. But against a backdrop of huge public concern around climate change and increasingly dire warnings from scientists, these trade groups continue to frustrate progress on climate policy, especially in the US, which should be leading the world in terms of climate ambition,” he said.

This Author

Richard Collett-White writes for Desomg.uk, where this article first appeared.

Johnson to double climate aid money by 2026

Boris Johnson has announced that the sum spent on helping developing countries reduce their carbon emissions will double to more than £11.6 billion.

The prime minister said the increase in the international climate finance pot would come between 2021/22 and 2025/26, as he made a series of commitments to tackle the climate crisis.

The aid money helps poorer nations deal with the environmental emergency by preventing deforestation and reducing carbon emissions, as well as to prepare for the effects of global warming.

Technology

The announcement at the United Nations General Assembly in New York on Monday came as the PM launched the Ayrton clean energy fund.

Named after British physicist and suffragette Hertha Ayrton, it will allow scientists to use up to £1 billion of the aid budget inventing new technology to tackle the climate crisis in developing countries.

The PM has put an emphasis on technology’s potential to answer the climate emergency and also announced a further £220 million from the overseas aid budget to save endangered species from extinction.

But environmental groups have warned changes to economic policies are essential to thwart environmental disaster, rather than relying on new inventions.

This Author

Sam Blewett is the PA political correspondent and is reporting from New York.

Interfaith collaboration to save Lebanon’s cedars

Charbel Tawk, a Lebanese environmental activist from Bcharre, a small town in the country’s north, said: “Give a tree a holy meaning and it will be protected in a faith community”.

The Cedars of God, a forest of cedrus libani, is nestled into the mountains above Bcharre, and Maronite Christians, who make up the majority of residents in this area, believe that the cedars are holy.

Cedars are mentioned in the Bible, but reverence for the trees transcends religion and they are displayed prominently on Lebanon’s flag. Across the country, interfaith collaboration drives efforts to protect them. 

Climate change

Experts forecast that by the year 2100, most of the cedars will disappear due to climate change. The trees require cold winters to reproduce, and a recent study predicted that they would only grow in three areas in Mount Lebanon by the end of the century.

Cedars thrive at altitudes between 1400 and 1500 meters, but can survive between 800 and 1800 meters, shares Charbel Tawk. The danger posed by climate change is not the first time human activity has threatened the cedars.

The Phoenicians, who lived on Lebanon’s shores, used cedar wood for their ships. Later, the Ottomans relied on the tree for railroad construction. Today, deforestation continues to threaten cedars. 

In Bcharre, a group called the Friends of the Cedar Forest Committee, with whom Charbel Tawk works, have carefully stewarded over the area known as the Cedars of God since 1996. In 1998, UNESCO designated the Cedars of God, along with the nearby Qadisha Valley, as a World Heritage Site.

The Maronite Church, whose crest features a cedar tree, officially own the land, but the Committee manage conservation efforts in and around the forest. Religion is at the heart of this commitment to the cedars, says Charbel Tawk. Youssef Tawk, a doctor who is well known for his love of the cedars said: “What saved the Cedars of God was the sacred space.” 

Ecosystems

The Committee spearheads an initiative to create a corridor of cedars linking Bcharre, Ehden, and Tannourine, three adjacent towns. Charbel Tawk explained: “In order to protect the forest, it’s not enough to protect it from the inside. You need to create an ecosystem.” 

Planting the now barren mountains will make forests more resilient to future environmental pressures, an approach taken by other organizations throughout Lebanon. Sandra Saba, the manager of Horsh Ehden Nature Reserve, described the reforestation project as “social and biological.” 

In Lebanon’s civil war, fighters loyal to Bachir Gemayel, a political leader from Bcharre, massacred Tony Frangieh, a leader from Ehden, and killed 40 others including Frangieh’s wife and young daughter. Thirty years later, tensions linger for some residents of the two towns.

Like Saba, Charbel Tawk sees the cedar corridor as an ecological and social endeavor. He said: “Nature is the easiest way to make people move closer together.” But others committed to the cedars are more skeptical.

Youssef Tawk said: “We will go, plant trees and clap, but when something happens, people are willing to pick up guns against each other. Our main preoccupations are communal and political, not environmental.” 

Return to roots

In August, the Committee organized an event called “Return to Roots,” aimed at merging environmental concerns with communal ones.

Historically, Maronite Christian and Muslim communities celebrated the Festival of God together in the cedar forest near Bcharre. Charbel Tawk explained: “They came to venerate their god, and we came to venerate ours.”

When the Committee took over its management in 1996, they closed the forest to the public for six years to allow for regrowth. The shared tradition ended—until the group relaunched it this past year. Elie Barakat, the current president of the Committee, said: “We are not just here to say no to the society, we are also part of it.” 

Sheikh Nizam Bou Khzam, the founder of the Shouf-based Lebanese House Establishment for the Environment (LHEE), commented: “The earth is holy for all religions.” In Shouf, a region south of Bcharre, multi-confessional communities also rally behind environmental concerns. Sheikh Nizam, a Druze religious leader, founded LHEE in 1999 with the goal of organizing Lebanese from across sects to take environmental action.

The nearby Shouf biosphere reserve, implements reforestation projects aimed at restoring the range of species that exist in a healthy cedar forest—from the cedars to shrubs and plants. Nizar Hani, a coordinator at the reserve, said: “Nature can be a common space for everyone.”

But he emphasized that rapid urbanization is a central challenge for both cedar forests and rural communities in Shouf. Reflecting on coexistence between himself and his Christian neighbors, Sheikh Nizam said: “When my neighbor has a problem, I help. This helps us to find a solution for environmental problems in Lebanon. Without each other, we wouldn’t know how to live.” 

This Author 

Catherine Cartier studies history and Arab studies at Davidson College. Her work has been featured in the New Arab, Syria Untold and Calvert Journal. She is a Beyond Religion Reporting Fellow at the Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting. Follow her on Twitter: @cartier_cath.

This story was produced with support from the Pulitzer Center for Crisis Reporting.

Image: Paul Saad, Flickr